A word on Emulsifiers, Solubilisers, Fragrances & Preservatives
Emulsifiers: An emulsifier is an additive which helps two liquids mix. For example, water and oil separate in a glass, but adding an emulsifier will help the liquids mix together.
Solubilisers: A solubiliser is an ingredient that helps make an insoluble ingredient soluble. When something is soluble it means that it can be dissolved in water. Solubilizers are widely used in natural cosmetics as they help dissolve essential oils in mostly water formulations.
What is the Difference Between Solubilizer and Emulsifier
The key difference between a solubiliser and an emulsifier is their water solubility. Solubilisers are completely water-soluble, but emulsifiers are not water-soluble.
Fragrance Oils: Fragrance oils are scented oils designed to be added to items like scented candles, home cleaners, room sprays, air fresheners, and vaporisers to give them pleasant, distinct aroma. Body-safe fragrance oils can be used in cosmetics, soaps, shampoos, perfumes, and other goods that come into contact with the skin or hair.
Preservatives: Preservatives are ingredients added to skin care formulas to prevent the growth of bacteria, yeast and fungi. Some preservatives are broad spectrum, which means they protect against all three. Preservatives are required in cosmetic products containing water because where there is water, there is life!
Ingredients used in Magical Potions
A non-ionic emulsifyer comprising of Cetearyl Alcohol and Ceteareth-20. Used in our Hand Lotion Potions to draw the oil and water molecules together and thicken the liquid in a format where they will not separate. The water resistance of the oil is broken down to allow the unifying of components into a beautifully emulsified end product. This product is even used in medical recipes to ensure consistency, and is therefore also refered to as NF (National Formulary). Ingredients: Cetearyl Alcohol (70-90%) and Ceteareth-20 (10-30%) Derived from non RSPO palm oil Vegan.
Veg-Emulse is a self-emulisfying, proprietory blend of natural emulsifiers that is highly sought after by those wanting to keep their products as natural as possible. Veg-Emulse is particularly suited to children's formulations and those with chemical intolerances. Veg-Emulse offers fabulous viscosity enhancement, improved stability, and conditioning in our face lotions and creams. Veg-Emulse improves moisturisation, skin feel, and is compatible with most types and classes of ingredients and leaves the skin with a conditioned, and silky smooth after feel. This all natural emulsifyer is better suited to our face lotions as the silky feeling is of benefit in this instance. However, for our hand lotions, the vegetable derived - emulsifying wax was better suited due to the improved absorbsion rate Based on Acyl Lactylates, which are wonderful for both skin and hair, anionic Lactylates are created through a reaction between the acyl group of fatty acids (ie Almond Oil, Olive Oil etc), and Lactic Acid. Both Fatty Acids and Lactic Acid are natural moisturising factor-constituents found in skin!
A note on Emulsifiers selected for our Potions: Veg Emulse is an all-natural emulsifier and whilst this was originally the preferable choice, after trials it was determined that it was better suited to our face lotions as the silky feeling is of benefit in this instance. However, for our hand lotions, the vegetable derived - emulsifying wax was a better fit due to the improved absorption rate. Whilst all natural ingredients are our preference, we will not allow it to be to the detriment of the finished product and results provided. We want you to love our potions as much as we fo and all factors have been considered on producing something magical for you.
What Is Polysorbate 20? Polysorbate 20 is an ingredient used in skincare and cosmetic formulations to improve the texture, feel, and scent of the product. It is mainly used as a surfactant, emulsifier, and fragrance ingredient. Polysorbate 20, also listed on an ingredient label as Tween 20, is formed by the ethoxylation of sorbitan before the addition of lauric acid. The process of making polysorbate 20 begins with sorbitol, a sugar alcohol that can naturally be found in some fruits. The dehydration of sorbitol results in sorbitan. The next step in the process of making polysorbate 20 is ethoxylation, which is a chemical reaction in which ethylene oxide is added to a substrate, in this case, sorbitan. Thus, sorbitan is reacted with 20 units of ethylene oxide, giving polysorbate 20 its name. The final step is the addition of one lauric acid group. Why Is Polysorbate 20 Used? Polysorbate 20 functions as a surfactant, emulsifier, and fragrance ingredient. Surfactant: Surfactant is the short term for surface-active agents. Surfactants are compounds that lower the surface tension between two substances, such as two liquids or a liquid and a solid. In skincare products, surfactants work to degrease and emulsify oils and fats and suspend dirt, allowing them to be washed away. This is possible because while one end of the surfactant molecule is attracted to water, the other end is attracted to oil. Thus, surfactants attract the oil, dirt, and other impurities that have accumulated on your skin during the day and wash them away. Due to these properties, polysorbate 20 can be found in many different cleansers and body washes. Emulsifier: Polysorbate 20 also functions as an emulsifier. An emulsifier is needed for products that contain both water and oil components, for example, when essential oils are added to a water-based formula. According to The European Food Emulsifiers Manufacturers Association, when oil and water-based ingredients are used together they tend to separate and split. To address this problem, an emulsifier can be added to produce a stable product. Scent: Finally, polysorbate 20 functions as a fragrance ingredient. As mentioned above, polysorbate 20 is initially derived from sorbitol, which can naturally be found in sweet-smelling fruits like apples, pears, peaches, and prunes, so it is often used to improve the scent of products. Is Polysorbate 20 Safe? The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel, a group responsible for evaluating the safety of skincare and cosmetic ingredients evaluated the scientific data and concluded that polysorbate 20 is safe for use in cosmetic formulations. Despite the approval of polysorbate 20 by the CIR Expert Panel, there are concerns about the presence of ethylene oxide in this ingredient. This is because the process of ethoxylation may lead to contamination with 1,4-dioxane, a potentially dangerous by-product. 1,4-dioxane is a known animal carcinogen that penetrates readily into the skin. According to the National Toxicology Program, ‘1,4-dioxane is reasonably anticipated to be a human carcinogen.’ It has also been linked with skin allergies. However, the potential presence of 1,4-dioxane can be controlled through purification steps to remove it before blending polysorbate 20 into cosmetic formulations. THE GOOD: Polysorbate 20 is used to improve the texture, feel, and the scent of skincare and cosmetic products. THE NOT SO GOOD: There are concerns about the presence of 1,4-dioxane in this ingredient. This is less of a concern recently, as the process of purifying polysorbate 20 is highly regulated. WHO IS IT FOR? All skin/Hair types except those that have an identified allergy to it. Is polysorbate 20 a natural product? Although the original sugar alcohol needed to make polysorbate 20 comes from fruits, polysorbate 20 itself is not a natural product due to the ethylene oxide involved in its production process. WRITTEN BY Elle MacLeman
What Is Polysorbate 80? Polysorbate 80 is a skincare ingredient used in cosmetics and personal care products to improve the texture of products. Polysorbate 80 is used as a surfactant, emulsifier, and solubilizer, helping to produce smooth, easy to apply skincare and body care products. While the texture of the product is mainly a sensory, it is important to also help the product to spread easily deliver the key ingredients evenly to the skin. Polysorbate 80 is produced by the ethoxylation of a molecule called sorbitan. Sorbitan is the dehydrated form of sorbitol, a sugar alcohol that can naturally be found in some fruits. Ethoxylation is a chemical reaction in which ethylene oxide is added to a substrate, in this case, sorbitan. Sorbitan is reacted with 80 units of ethylene oxide, which is where the 80 in polysorbate 80 comes from. Polysorbate 80 exists as a thick, water-soluble yellow liquid. Why Is Polysorbate 80 In My Product? In cosmetics and personal care products, polysorbate 80 functions as a surfactant, emulsifier, and solubilizer. Surfactant: Polysorbate 80 is a surfactant. Surfactants work by lowering the surface tension between two substances, such as two liquids or a liquid and a solid so that can be mixed. A common use for surfactants in skincare is to mix a water-based ingredient with an oil based ingredient. A surfactant has two sides to the molecule, one that is attracted to oil and one that is attracted to water. It works by binding to both at the same time, mixing them together. Surfactants are particularly important in cleansers and body washes as they help to lift dirt and oils that have accumulated on the skin and allow them to be washed away. Due to its ability to work as a surfactant, polysorbate 80 is often found in many different cleansers and body washes. Emulsifier: Polysorbate 80 is also an emulsifier. As an emulsifier, polysorbate 80 is often used in formulations that contain both water and oil components. Mixing water and oil together creates a dispersion of oil droplets in water. However, the oil and water can separate if the product is left to settle. To address this problem, an emulsifier like polysorbate 80 can be added to help the droplets remain dispersed and so that the product remains mixed and doesn’t separate. Emulsifiers improve the consistency of a product, which enables an even distribution of the benefits of the key ingredients. Solubilizer: Polysorbate 80 has the ability to function as a solubilizer. It can be used individually, or in combination with a variety of other emulsifiers, to produce many different types of oil-in-water, and water-in-oil emulsion systems. When used alone, polysorbate 80 is excellent at dissolving essential oils into formulations and has good function as a thickener, stabilizer and prevents static. Polysorbate 80 can also improve the ability to rinse off scrubs and cleansing oils, reducing the residue they leave behind. Polysorbate 80 vs Polysorbate 20: There is very little difference between polysorbate 80 and polysorbate 20. They have similar chemical structures, with the only difference being that the type of fatty acid that is attached. In polysorbate 20 it is lauric acid and in polysorbate 80 it is oleic acid. This difference has little effect on the abilities when used as a food or cosmetics additive. It makes polysorbate a slightly weaker emulsifier than polysorbate 80. This means that polysorbate 80 is better at emulsifying heavier oils. Making polysorbate 80 better suited as a food additive and polysorbate 20 more suitable for cosmetic formulations that utilize lighter oils. Is Polysorbate 80 Vegan? Polysorbate 80 is a vegan ingredient. It is derived from vegetable oils and doesn’t use animal or animal by-products in its production. Is Polysorbate 80 Safe? Historically there are concerns about the presence of ethylene oxide and the ethoxylation process by which this ingredient is made. This concern stems from the production of 1,4-dioxane during the ethoxylation process. 1,4-dioxane has been linked to some forms of cancer. This is concerning however; manufacturing processes have been put in place to ensure that 1,4-dioxane is not present in the final product and polysorbate 80 is measured for impurities in the manufacturing process. It is also important to note that many of the studies that informed the link made between cancer and 1,4-dioxane specifically tested 1,4-dioxane not polysorbate 80. Polysorbate 80 has been known to cause some irritation and sensitization in some skin types. This is most likely to occur in skin types that are prone to irritation and sensitivity. If your skin is sensitive then it may be beneficial to avoid this ingredient. While this reaction is rare, it may be best to have a discussion with your dermatologist or doctor to determine whether it may be potentially contributing to the sensitivity you are experiencing. Other Uses: In addition to its function in cosmetics, polysorbate 80 can be used to prepare a wide variety of products in the food, drug, textile, and metalworking industries. The US Food and Drug Administration has approved polysorbate 80 as a direct food additive as adjuvants of flavouring agents or as multipurpose additives. Additionally, polysorbate 80 has FDA approval as an ingredient in eye drops.
CCG is a multi use surfactant in that it not only foams, but is also used as a Non PEG Solubliser. CCG is a sugar based member of the alkyl polyglucoside family, CCG is suitable for inclusion in shampoo and cleanser formulas with a high percentage of surfactants cationics (Guar Conditioner & Conditioning Emulsifier). CCG is also tolerant of highly alkaline products such as Natural Liquid Soap (Castile and handmade liquid KOH based soaps). Because of this tolerance it is really useful to solubilise the Essential Oils and Fragrances used to scent these finished products whilst maintaining their natural profile. Vegetable Derived (sugar based) EcoCert Approved INCI: Caprylic, Capric Glucoside; Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside
A note on the Solubilisers selected for our Potions: CCG is a vegetable derived solubiliser and whilst this was originally the preferable choice (in alignment with Magical Potions values), after trials it was determined that it was better suited to our cleanser and make up remover potions only. This is due to the foaming nature of the CCG Surfactant which did not translate well in other potions.
A note on Fragrance Oils. Fragrance oils are listed as: "Fragrance" and do not list the ingredients within (as to not give away specific formulations). This is not ideal, and the ingredients contained within are often not ideal. In particular Phthalates (studies have found phthalates to have endocrine-disrupting effects, adverse effects on development and reproductive health, even affecting respiratory health). Please be advised that the fragrances that Magical Potions chooses to use in the Hair Potion/Hair Elixir range are Phthalate free.
What are Fragrance Oils: Synthetically created aromas. How Is Fragrance Oil Made? Scientists and perfumers work in laboratories to create synthetic fragrance oils. They use synthetic aroma chemicals and materials found in nature, like essential oils, resins, and extracts, to reproduce a scent artificially. To make a fragrance oil, perfumers and chemists create chemical reactions with synthetic compounds to make a new scent. They use scent binders like phthalates to help keep the aroma strong over a long period of time. These ingredients may be natural or synthetic and may come in a powder, liquid, or crystalline form. When a perfumer opts to use power or crystalline ingredients to make a fragrance oil, they must utilize a solvent to help it dissolve into liquid oil. A common solvent that has been declared safe to use by most worldwide standards is Di Ethyl Phthalate or DEP. Some perfume chemists choose to use an alternative solvent that is phthalate-free. Magical Potions sources fragrances that do not contain Phthalates. Fragrance oils are formulated to IFRA and RIFM standards within an ISO9001 accredited quality controlled manufacturing facility.
Geogard® ECT - What is it? A liquid natural broad-spectrum preservative. ECO certified. It is comprised of: Benzy alcohol: 77–86% Salicylic acid: 8–15% Glycerin: 3–6% Sorbic acid: 1–4% INCI: Benzyl Alcohol (and) Salicylic Acid (and) Glycerin (and) Sorbic Acid Why do we use it in our potions?: Why do we use it in formulations?Geogard® ECT protects our formulations from microbial spoilage (bacteria, yeast, fungus). Cautions before use: Due to the salicylic acid content, Geogard® ECT cannot be used in products for children under 3 except for shampoo. As per the Mayo Clinic: Young children may be at increased risk of unwanted effects because of increased absorption of salicylic acid through the skin. Also, young children may be more likely to get skin irritation from salicylic acid. Salicylic acid should not be applied to large areas of the body, used for long periods of time, or used under occlusive dressing (air-tight covering, such as kitchen plastic wrap) in children. Use of salicylic acid topical in children younger than 2 years of age is not recommended.